Culture traitor

We got a ride to the Puebla outlet mall, not because we intended to shop or even step inside but because we were to be collected from here. Our hostess was waiting and we drove up to San Rafael Tenanyecac, a small village quite near Cacaxtla. Along the way we passed the black obelisk from […]

Joining the wave

In the mid-morning we went out for lunch and walked past makeshift roofed veranda outside someone’s house with a table and a pan set up outside and a handwritten sign saying ‘pulque, michelada’. The food looked delicious so we decided to eat there. It turned out to be excellent: a couple of quesedillas filled with […]

Cinco de Mayo

First, a clarification. In yesterday’s blog post I wrote about the tunnels of the pyramid in Cholula, imagining they were built for some sort of ritual purpose, but some reading on Wikipedia today tells me that in fact they were excavated by archaeologists. I am joined, I’m sure, by the archaeologists of the future, post […]

Walls closing in

In the morning, after breakfast, we finally went to the great pyramid of Cholula, reputed to be the largest in the world. Indeed, most of it just looks like a massy hill, but there have been excavations on one side revealing a crazy mix of walls and rooms from different eras. Very hard to understand; […]

Poor planning

As is often the case I have planned poorly and have far more work than I have time for, and that too as I have arrived in Mexico. I’m frantically trying to finish it all, with outings only for meals and extended walks with the meals. Yesterday’s morning walk was my favourite, I think, to […]

Sinking in

It is now about 24 hours since I arrived in Merida and I have sunk nicely into the city, though unfortunately at the expense of work. Yesterday, after a bit of rest in the afternoon (I think this will be my usual routine in this climate. It is designed for siesta, with fierce bright afternoons […]

A full, embarrassing, week later

Much has happened, not least the arrival of the Boddhisatva and then her departure along with the Gentleman Friend to a conference while I have stayed on in the Bay Area. It’s easier to be with difficult relatives when there are not others around as I am not on guard and trying to keep everyone […]

Chaat shaat

A quick drive over to Sunnyvale, which is where all the Chinese and desis come to settle, apparently. It was a place of strip malls, unlike wooded Woodside, first strip malls in Chinese, then in Hindi. We had some extremely tasty chaat – I’m afraid I overate – and then went off to an Indian […]

Cal cuisine

Last night we met an old school friend for dinner. It was at a health food-ish restaurant that I was originally somewhat suspicious of, as it was full of gluten-free ancient grains, wellness talk, superfoods regardless of air miles and had calorie counts on the menu. Such places, aside from the Gwyneth Paltrow aura, tend […]

Breaking waves

Yesterday, Sunday, we went first to the Palo Alto farmer’s market. Singificantly nicer than the other part of the Palo Alto, although still full of unpleasant people including, I understand, Mark Zuckerberg’s preferred hangout. We bought some highly organic and overpriced steamed dim sum which sadly lacked all finesse and tasted mostly of corn flour. […]