We took the ferry to Uskudar today, after some hemming and hawing and backing and forthing about what to do, where to go, etc etc. Eventually we went to Uskudar, Scutari as was, partly because of a relative of mine who often sings a Turkish song that goes Üsküdar’a gider iken. As usual the ferry ride was a pleasure, and we also got to watch as people posed for selfies, holding up bread and hoping a seagull would obligingly descend and take the bread without biting off their fingers. None of them succeeded (probably for the best), but the man sitting opposite us has his coat lapel spoiled by a gull. It was a clear, warm day, unseasonably so for December, and I hadn’t even bothered to bring my jacket. I’ve still not worn my winter coat; it has been an unsettlingly warm winter so far. Anyway, the light was beautiful as usual, and as we drew away from Karakoy I got my usual jolt of excitement at seeing the building in which our flat is located, prominent by the tower. It is something to be said to live (or to eventually live, if the place doesn’t fall down), in a building that is past of the city’s historic skyline.
It was shockingly quiet on the other side, compared to Beyoglu which is more international and bustles a fair bit, even during lockdown. I found Uskudar quite interesting, clearly a historic place, but where the startling density of mosques and monuments were set amongst bland modern buildings. Even in Fatih, where there is so much commercial activity, the construction is still old.
Anyway, we visited a few mosques, which were small and pretty, particularly the one just facing the Maiden’s Tower which, unlike many of the others, is still touching the Bosphorus. Then we strolled on towards Kadikoy, the idea being to connect all the way from Kuzguncuk to the far side of Moda. Which we did: most of it was a pleasant walk along the sea, with a quiet (today) road on the other side, and tall cliffs with greenery and houses with impressive views towards Sarayburnu. This eventually turned into less pleasant, but still interesting, walk along the big port, largely along parked lorries and the fronts of lorries, with some bits past what looked liked a really massive military building, a mile or more square.
The way went through a hospital, but first there was a little road leading down towards the water, with a sign pointing to the Commonwealth cemetery. A prime location, and I was rather curious to see it as the sign said that there was a memorial to soldiers from British India, and I wondered if there would be any from regiments I recognised. The path was a pretty one, stony and vivid with moss, but the gate at the end was locked.
We walked through the hospital instead, which had a strong post-apocalyptic feel as it was very, very quiet, and the 60s cinderblocks were stained and abandoned. It also had some of the poorest sculptures I’ve ever seen, though more amusing than plain ugly, with flappy fists on either side of a narrow head.
Leaving the hospital we crossed a bridge over what were supposed to be train tracks or a road but looked like an archaeological site. Perhaps the top of the tunnel across the Bosphorus? I’m not sure. In any case, we arrived in Kadikoy to catch a ferry and here we are.