Finished

A quiet sort of working day. The Gentleman Friend went into the office for much of the day so I had the flat to myself and later wento to a cafe for the better intenret. The internet in the flat is usually ok for browsing and downloading, but even attaching a 30kb document to an […]

Working day

Monday was our first working day and occurred in two parts: first at the Urbanista cafe, accompanied by a croissant and coffee. Then I came home to make a quick lunch which turned out not to be so quick as the stove is powered by a gas cannister and it took me some time to […]

Around a dark corner

We went first to Badaro, an up and coming neighbourhood in eastern Beirut, but south of where we are in Gemmayze. Most things, including galleries etc were closed but we had a tasty if overpriced breakfast and then strolled through Badaro towards the national museum. This latter was very impressive in its display, though less […]

Grazing

We walked down to the downtown area, to Beirut Souqs, for the Souq al-Tayeb, the biweekly farmer’s market. Along the way, amidst the reconstructed yellow buildings and across what was once the Green Line, we walked through the global chains that signify a blighted luxury; your Burberries, Ralph Laurens etc. In a shadow of a […]

I was dreaming and then I woke up

Our first day in Beirut. I pottered around, unpacking and assessing as the GF slept. The flat is triangular, with a balcony at the point. The bathroom is the weakest part of it, as the shower is also tucked into a narrow triangle and is quite uncomfortable (not to mention mouldy) whereas I can easily […]

Firm believer

I arrived in Beirut a firm believer in airport lounges. The stopover was in Istanbul’s small, over-crowded second airport. the lounge was also small and overcrowded, but I found myself a table (though an Arab family tried at one point to take it over and I had storm back in a range and put back […]

Melancholy hill

I’m sitting in the Stansted airport lounge, far superior to the cattle pen. I might get used to this – I am only here on sufferance really, because we have a credit card that, with an added fee, gives lounge access. They gave me the credit card by mistake and then decided to just waive […]

A sign

There is a bird feeder hanging from the ceiling of the small veranda outside the living room, overlooking the garden. It’s a pretty little veranda, filld with plants, including some from my time in London which are doing far, far better now that they are no longer subject to my care. There are always birds […]

Farewell nihari

I was struck by a pang today, realising that in the months ahead I would have no chance for good nihari. There will be meaty food in Lebanon but without mirch masala. There will be mirch masala in Nepal (I assume) but no meat and certainly no nihari. New Zealand and Australia – fug, as […]

Unusual sociability, continued

I went for lunch with a relative of the Gentleman Friend, the sort of person who cares so hard that he doesn’t let himself feel it. His particular obsession is wildlife, and he is better travelled to see it than anyone else I know. It was a pleasant lunch; he had some advice about New […]