blog

Crunch time

The Brexit storm has struck, and I do feel some pity for Theresa May, despite her own hand in her misery. Also some admiration for her ability to keep going, like the Black Knight, even though I wish she’d just done the sensible thing and called off the whole business and let the Brexiteer loons […]

Story of a friend

“Are you from India?” “No, from Pakistan.” “Muslim country.” “Yes.” “Are you Hindu?” “No, Muslim.” “Ahhh. You don’t wear, what is it called?” “Hijab? Scarf?” “Like dupatta….” “Dupatta?” “Burqa.” “No I don’t.” “It doesn’t make a problem for you?” “No. Many people in Pakistan don’t wear it.” “I saw Pakistan on TV and all the […]

Inside

I was inside for most of the day, as it was back to working and the Gentleman Friend was not feeling well at all. I am increasingly convinced that he did have at least the start, or a mild form, of high-altitude pulmonary oedema, which is often deadly. But he is not one to go […]

Around Lazimpat

We had a quiet Sunday as the Gentleman Friend was not feeling very well at all. At lunchtime we went for a stroll around Lazimpat and I was impressed by how pleasant it all was, particularly after Thamel but even after Patan. Lots of quiet very narrow streets connected by even narrower alleys between walls […]

Move on

Yesterday we checked out of the hotel and moved to our next Airbnb, a room in a family house in Lazimpat. This is the embassy district of Kathmandu, about a 20 minute walk from Thamel. The main road is full of restaurants and shops, and behind it is the usual Kathmandu warren of very narrow […]

Hello to the freaks

It was the final day of Tihar, and the auspicious time for this day’s main celebration was around 11.50 so when the Gentleman Friend, tired and unwell, finally woke and we left for breakfast there was almost no breakfast to be found. Eventually we made our way to the French Bakery (where I had the […]

Back in Thamel

I returned to Thamel after ODing on the paneer and mushrooms I had bought for meals (they were family sized purchases and I hate throwing away food). Thamel was, unlike everywhere else, packed, and it was odd to see so many goras after a week or so in the suburbs. There were mandalas outside the […]

I’m off

Off to the Gentleman Friend, that is, as my work travel hasn’t panned out yet and meanwhile he is back from his hike. While the uncertainty around work is annoying, it is good not to have to wait another full month before seeing him again. So I leave the homestay – the Tibetans left yesterday […]

Day of the dog

Yesterday was the day of the dog here in Nepal, the second day of Diwali (Tihar). On the first day, crows are worshipped as the harbingers of death. On the second, dogs are worshipped as the companions of humanity. When I stepped out briefly to buy some milk for tea I found that even the […]

Neighbourhood dance

I got caught up in the local Tihar celebrations today. At around 8pm all the neighbourhood women gathered at someone’s house, all dressed in red, and sang and danced. The songs were mostly rather like our Punjabi tappas: someone would improvise or semi-improvise a couple, funny or otherwise, and the others would sing it after […]