Yesterday, Saturday, was the day the government had decided, somewhat belated, to allow farmers to bring their produce to sell at Istanbul’s street markets. Why supermarkets are allowed to function in a lockdown but open air street markets are not remains a mystery for the ages – but so little of the pandemic response has been logical, this is not restricted to Turkey by any means. In any case, the GF and I decided to go to the organic market up in Sisli – a bit of an error, as there are other markets closer to us, and we left at around 3 with the market due to close at 5, and it was intermittently raining.
It took a bit over an hour to get there, most of which was quite pleasant despite occasional light rain, and we stopped for a coffee at one point and drank it at the top of a staircase with a vertiginous view down a hillside in Cihangir. Later, though, the rain fell harder and at this time we were walking along muddy, narrow pavements with wobbling foot-soaking bricks and far too many people also walking around, so I really did not enjoy this portion. We arrived at the market at about 20 past 4 and it was mostly empty: a couple of stalls with scraps were still there, otherwise there were reeking piles of artichoke trimmings and broad bean pods, and stall tables turned over. So rather disappointing, especially since I had hoped to buy some spring plants for our flat.
We bought a handful of things and then walked over to Bomonti to buy a few more items, and returned.
Then, however, things started looking up I came across a new Pakistani restaurant which had opened just a day or two ago. It was in Beyoglu and from the menu appeared to be genuinely Pakistani. On the spur of the moment I decided this would be my dinner, so I ordered some biryani, chanay ki daal and shami kebabs, plus a couple of rotis to try. The food took its time to arrive, but eventually it did, and while it was nothing special by Pakistani standards, it was at least actual Pakistani food, not too heavy and full of cheap oils as small overseas desi restaurant food often is. It was a delight to have some flavours from home, and I think I shall order for myself regularly, at least once a week as an order will last me several meals.
This, perhaps, was why I slept rather well last night.
Last night was Laylatul Qadr and Al Aqsa was under attack. It is interesting to see the divergence of coverage – on one hand, about Palestinian youth being targeted by brutal police as though it were a Black Lives Matter protest, with none of the horror that is evident in other coverage, about worship at the second holiest place in Islam being attacked around the holiest night of the year.