Our flat in Istanbul has the most ridiculous views. One series of windows looks out over the Bosphorus, with the Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque in clear view. Another window faces down a narrow old street, at the end of which is the Galata tower. In the evenings, at sunset, the coast of Asia is bathed in golden light, and then as the sun goes down it turns grey-blue but the glass windows still reflect fierce gold.
We arrived early, so had to wait for about an hour before we were let into the flat. In this time, first the GF and then I went for quick strolls about our new neighbourhood, our home for the next few weeks. Narrow cobbled streets, tall Ottoman-era houses, that same dishevelled elegance I remember from Beirut, though scarred more by years of neglect than by war. As we waited, people were starting to emerge slowly into the strong, clear morning light. At around 7 the nearest bakery was due to open, so the GF went off to buy some breakfast.
After being let into the flat and being stunned into silence by the view, we unpacked, showered and had our bread on the balcony, our first morning in Istanbul. The water was blue touched with silver now, and ferries were gliding quietly across the water, continent to continent. Across there were the piled up domes of Ottoman and Byzantine mosques and monuments. Such a different architecture from mosques in South Asia, with fat domes that form virtually the entire building, and the tall, spindly minarets. Interesting that the skyline remains largely the same as a hundred years ago, or if not the same, still dominated by the constructions of the past. So unlike most places, such as London where one has to search to find the Tower or St Pauls hiding in the shadow of the Gherkin and countless less distinguished/able buildings.
We went first for breakfast, a Turkish breakfast which means abundance. Quite startling, as I had not had one before, with tiny portions of cheeses, olives, honey, clotted cream, breads of various sorts, meats and salads. Then a stroll, over the bridge and towards the old part of town where we walked past (though not into) the grand old monuments and back, just going past (but not into) the Grand Bazaar. The latter streets reminded me very much indeed of being at Icchra or Shahalmi at home, if home were more orderly, richer and cleaner. It really is a city on two continents.
By this time I was ready to collapse, however, so we returned to the flat where I went into a state between a nap and zone-out for an hour or so, just enough to revive me but not enough to disrupt sleep later. Dinner was at a fish place which was determinedly fish themed, and where the fish came with a seemingly endless series of mezze. Quite tasty though I am really looking forward to some good grilled meats.