I slept badly last night, and have done so for a few nights past. There was first the anxiety about the land, and whether or not we should buy it, which manifested in dreams. Last night for some reason my feet felt very cold, as though we were back in London in our poorly heated flat in winter, instead of a hut in a tropical jungle. Then, a troupe of howler monkeys set up camp somewhere very close by and their dissonant roars were loud enough to wake us both. They are not the most musical animals, and in my half-sleeping state I worried that they would smash into our room, forgetting the iron bars on the windows.
I was also a bit restless because whilst cooking I sliced a portion of my middle finger off – not very badly, but deep enough that it wouldn’t stop bleeding and broke through the plaster a few times. By the morning it was achy but seemed quite closed and now, by the evening, I can barely tell there is anything wrong unless I bang against it. The Gentleman Friend’s biology lectures have made it almost a pleasure to be injured, as I’m much more mindful of the healing process and feel a real sense of wonder about it.
This morning I was supposed to go for my long-needed haircut but the hairdresser turned out to be on the far side of Cocles, and a good bit of work arrived, so it was not possible for me to take out that much time. So I continue to look something like a bag lady. It was very hot today.
Lunch was at Soda Aunty Lidia’s Place, the most famous restaurant in Puerto Viejo, which does the local Caribbean food. It was far, far better than the previous time we went, perhaps because we went early and there was almost no one there, so it felt cooked with much more care. I had their Caribbean chicken, which is a milder jerk chicken, but perhaps the best thing about it was the rice and beans, which was made with coconut and cinnamon and other spices. Very delicate and delicious.
Then coffee at our usual spot, Roam, and back along the beach which was looking absurdly beautiful, so much the same as always. We agreed that of the routine strolls we’ve had over the past year and a bit, this ranks at the top, followed by the sunset walk to the old harbour in Byblos, then the daily climb up the pyramid at Cholula, followed by the low-key walk to and from town in Hilo and simply leaving our front door in Patan where, more often than not, one might encounter a goddess or nine. It’s been a good year and a bit.
Tomorrow, Saturday, is our last day in Puerto Viejo.