Woke up early and went to the Walled City with my sister visiting from Islamabad. We arrived at around 6.30 or so, when few were out and the streets were still piled with the rubbish from the day before. The driver dropped us off at the Sheranwala gate instead of Lohari gate as we’d asked so it took a good bit of walking through quiet streets and narrow alleys, asking directions, before we arrived (on the way back to the car we took a rickshaw). We were clearly out of place – me with short hair, both of us women alone, heads uncovered, no chador. One woman who asked for directions said she’d guide us part of the way and clearly spent it rehearsing the English at the end. We finally got to Haji Sahib where we had our nihari, and a generous portion of nalli (bone marrow) each, with tea and coke. A delicious breakfast. I think I enjoyed the walk more than the sister did – she doesn’t like being out before her morning tea. The day turned out a beautiful one; there was a dust storm overnight which cooled things down, and the day was overcast, with occasional rainfall. Not so good for the farmers, unfortunately, as the wheat had been cut and the damp makes it sprout, but I decided to play the city slicker and just enjoy the break from the heatwave.
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